Blog

Chef's Trip to Italy - Summer 2009

Click here to leave this site and visit Fabio's photo stream on FLICKR: http://www.flickr.com/photos/fabiocentini

	Domodimonti Winery, Ascoli
	Sunday, August 16, 2009 5:56 PM
	Coming shortly. http://www.domodimonti.com/vino/EN/index.php

	From Fabio Finally
	Thursday, August 13, 2009 4:43 PM
	Well Hello to All Tuesday Morning in Ascoli Piceno. Sitting here having a nice cup of Café (espresso). Sorry to have to put the last few days on the same blog. Driving 2500 KM in six days and managing over 1000 pictures has kept me busy. But please do not feel sorry for me. We have been from Florence to Parma to Soave to Livorno and now Ascoli Piceno (my home town). It has been great. We have done 3 stars Michelin to mama and nonna cooking in the back, where you get no menu just food. If you are willing to drive a little to seek out the best food and wine in Italy, it is worth it. My experience at Dal Pescatore was just to die for. Ostreia Del Cera --- WOW! And the other night in a little restaurant Il Casolare Hotel Ristorante in the mountains of Ascoli where we had simple locale food, oh yah, just amazing. The local flavors that just brought back great memories for me --- mama’s home cooked meals. Does not get better then that. See the following posts for more of our experiences at these outstanding and highly recommended establishments. More to come; wait until you hear about Domodimonte Paradise on a hilltop in Le Marche Fabio Click here to view Fabio's photos stream on FLICKR

	Dal Pescatore
	Thursday, August 13, 2009 4:19 PM
	Del Pescatore Please let me start with Del Pescatore. When we arrived, Mr. Antonio Santini greeted us so pleasantly and warmly. We introduced ourselves, and after a little discussion, he remembered that I had cooked for him in 1992, in Montreal at Le Latini. He even remembered what he ate. The night was starting off very well. While were waiting for our host, Mr. Roberto Anselmi and his Daughter Lisa, we enjoyed a beautiful glass of Ca Del Bosco Franciacorta, a sparkling white wine, similar to prosecco. When our hosts arrived, the night got better and better. We ordered the way I like to order. Put the menu away and let them feed you. The pictures do the talking www.flikr.com/photos/fabiocentini . What a night. We drank a 1993 Anselmi Realda. What a wine! Sixteen years old and it is aging beautifully with lots of fruit. Please put this wine on your too must have when you get a chance. All I can say is WHAT A NIGHT. The experience of Dal Pescatore is one that I will have to revisit with my wife. Late that night we drove 1 ½ hrs. too Soave. Wine country!!! We stayed at this little Hotel called Relais Villa Bella. Just the cutest hotel. The room was pretty modernly equipped but it felt like something out of the 16th century. Do not forget we are in the country. These are the unknown gems that one must seek out. Italy is full of little treasures. For me what I love most (after my wife) is food and wine and seeking them out in Italy. This is an adventure that one cannot express. I am like a kid in a candy store. Speaking the language takes away the challenge of getting around. View Dal Pescatore's website

	Anselmi
	Thursday, August 13, 2009 4:46 PM
	Roberto Anselmi's Winery The big cities have great things to offer the little towns and country side has even better things to offer. That morning we found ourselves at Roberto Anselmi winery. Family run winery, all I can say Oh yah! There wines are pure clean and natural. No chemicals and that is important to me. In my eyes and palate, by far the best wine that comes out of Soave. Fabio

	Antica Osteria Cera
	Thursday, August 13, 2009 4:28 PM
	Lunch at Antica Osteria Cera We toured the winery and then Roberto took us to lunch via helicopter. We could see Venice from a distance. I knew this was going to be a fish and seafood lunch. We ended up at Antica Osteria Cera. http://www.osteriacera.it/ In the back of the restaurant they had room for a helicopter to land. One of Italy’s finest seafood restaurants, the fish is delivered twice a day. Before lunch we visited the kitchen, I wanted to just put on an apron and get right in there. The kitchen so clean and inviting, the staff already at work putting out food. My mouth was watering and I wanted to just start lunch. What a tease before lunch. Don’t forget we had an Italian breakfast. Café and a pastry. I was ready to eat. Roberto looked at me and I said “ I am in there their hands”. He ask our server ( who happened to be the chef’s wife, to feed us but to insure we include a couple of their specialties. Pictures please pictures. What can I say? That was good, real good. Then we departed via helicopter to take a tour of the vineyards. What better way. Roberto, my friend, like your wines you are a class act. Thank You. Fabio http://www.osteriacera.it

	Florence
	Thursday, August 13, 2009 4:35 PM
	Florence We arrived in Florence that evening. Checked in to our hotel, the Montebello Splendido, a wonderful boutique place. I suggested that we chill out and take it easy that night. We went around the corner to a little restaurant and had a Steak Fiorentina. In Florence you must have Something Fiorentina at some point and time. Well this steak (see pictures) could feed a few. I realized they had the new vintage of Tignanello (2006). So I give it a go. For me young and not drinking yet. I was ready to end this great day. Ca’ Marcanda, Angelo Gaja’s Tuscan winery is waiting for us the next morning. Fabio

	Ca'Marcanda
	Thursday, August 13, 2009 4:39 PM
	Ca'Marcanda Winery (Tuscany) Friday morning we arrived t Ca’ Marcanda on the strada del vino in Bolgheri, Tuscany. By the way, Starda Del Vine in Bolgheri is a trip to take. You can take guided tours through them. Search the internet for the tip that works for you. We were greeted Valentina and she had a private tour and tasting planed for us. If one does not know of GAJA wines, let just say is the king of Piedmont and now has made his mark in Tuscany. The winery is full of art pieces. Just a gem to see. If you ever get a chance to visit, I would highly recommend it. We tasted Ca’ Marcanda Ca’ Marcanda and the Ca’ Marcanda Magari. They did not disappoint. They were just great --- just what you would expect when Mr. GAJA puts his name on it. Just wonderful. Fabio

	August 7, 2009 (continued
	Thursday, August 13, 2009 4:43 PM
	Ca'Marcanda Winery & La Pineta Restaurant After what a few route recaculations, something we are getting used to now, we were greeted at the gates of Ca'Marcanda by Valentina. Set in the picturesque Tuscan hills a stones throw away for the Tirreno Sea, Valentina guided us on a tour of this amazing vineyeard. Telling us stories of how and why Mr. Gaja chose this particular piece of land and the history of the area, soil and how the success of Sassicaia brought him to want to make wine in Tusancy. Taking us into the facility, a work of art in itself, we walked through the process from the arrival of the hand-picked grapes to aging in the oak barriques and bottling and order processing. The building is very modern with unique pieces of art work you would not expect to see in a winery. And what would a tour of a winery be without a tasting. We were treated to a 2007 Magari and 2005 Ca'Marcanda. Both were simply beauiful. For being still young, they were drinking fantastic, but the aging potential was definately there. I never realized that drinking such great wine would work up such an appetite! Restaurant La Pineta, Livorno, Tuscany Looking through our book of the area, La Pineta was highly regarded as one of the best seafood restaurants near by. The drive to this 1 Michelin Star restaurant took us on a very interesting path. Driving on a long, bumpy, sandy road we thought we were going to end up in the sea! But instead we ended up at what was literally a shack on the beach just feet from the water. No wonder they are known for their seafood, it practically jumps from the water to your plate! Experiencing seafood in two top calibre restaurants, on two different seas, in two days was unreal. Of course beautiful food deserves beautiful wine. A bottle of Bellavista Rose and Gaja Alteni Di Brassica complemented the dishes. And thinking forward to the days ahead we would spend in Naples, we purchased new watches from a a kind gentleman from Senegal who accommodated us with his wares right on the beach. I never would have guessed we would be able to get such a great deal on a Patek Philiippe and a Breitling!!! Scott

	August 7, 2009
	Sunday, August 9, 2009 6:40 PM
	Florence Our drive to Florence landed us at the Hotel Montebello Splendid, An absolutly GORGEOUS hotel in the heart of Florence. Because we were literally only staying 12 hours in the city, not to mention sleep the last few nights has not come in excess, we did not have the chance to really get out and explore what the home of Michalangelo's "David" had to offer. We did land ourselves at Paperorosso, a nice little place just a few steps from the hotel. Since we were in Tuscany we decided to spluge a little and drink a nice bottle of 2006 Tignanello. We figured it would go perfectly with our MASSIVE steak Fiorentina. I wish I could have enjoyed more of this succulent grilled 30oz piece of meat...so tender and dripping with its juices and seasoned beautifully with sea salt and pepper. Now full and completely exhausted from another AMAZING day, one must sleep. Click here to see Fabio's photo stream on FLICKR

	August 6, 2009
	Friday, August 7, 2009 12:02 PM
	Lunch at da Cera Photos and Blog to come. http://www.osteriacera.it/

	August 6, 2009
	Friday, August 7, 2009 12:53 AM
	A Private tour of Anselmi After dreams of our dinner last night, I had no idea what was instore for us today. Well, I did. Sort of. Lisa, Roberto's daughter, met us at our hotel to take us on a private tour of the Anselmi vineyard and facility. What an amazing production. Lisa was very detailed at explaining the process (in English, thank you Lisa!) and history behind the great wines of Anselmi. Listening to her, you see the same love and passion she shares with her father about the fantastic wines that are grown, vinified, aged and bottled all on this 70 hectare piece of land. Just as we were touring that tasting room, I thought we were about to sample some wines, we heard Roberto shouting up to us. Back down the elevator we go. As the doors open we were greeted by Roberto, "our helicopter awaits!" Flying above the hills of Soave, with Venice in the distance, what better way to arrive at a restaurant. Our 20 minute flight landed us at da Cera (1 Michelin Star). Renowed for its extraordinarily fresh seafood, I once again could not be prepared for what waited inside. This, not unlike last nights dinner, was far too amazing to be described with words. Seafood so fresh it was almost still moving on our plates, was something this landlocked Calgarian had ever seen before. Pictures again are the only way this story can be told. Back in our personal helicopter, we took the scenic route and Roberto showed us, from 300 feet in the air, all of his hilltop vines. Roberto and Lisa, thank you so much for a rediculously memorable experience that I know I will never forget!!

	August 5, 2009
	Friday, August 7, 2009 1:11 AM
	Roberto Anselmi takes us to Dal Pescatore Dinner did not come down to a coin toss. We were being graciously hosted by winemaker Roberto Anselmi and his daughter at the 3 Michelin Star restaurant, Dal Pescatore in a tiny hamlet near Mantova in the Veneto region. Now not exactly knowing where we will be laying our heads to rest this evening, we changed into our more formal wear at a delightful roadside "Chef Express". In the parking lot. Now dressed to impress on our way to what is sure to one of the most amazing dining experiences, we found out first hand exactly why never to fully trust your GPS. Go straight 300 metres then turn right. No problem. Except for the 8 foot wall and train tracks 10 feet in front of us. Technology is great. After "recalculating route" we were back on track. Arriving at the very unassuming Dal Pescatore, one would never imagine the experience that awats inside. www.dalpescatore.com Now I could write and tell you about how flawless the food was. Or how impeccable the service was. But I can't. The experience we had at our table in a private room tucked off of the main floor is one that can not be described in any language. Instead, I took a few pictures which will tell you a story that I could not do justice with words. Magnificent!! After what came as close to perfection one could experience in a meal, we headed towards the Soave region where we would be staying for the night. Roberto had arranged a room for us at Relais VillaBella. A patio party, which happens every Wednesday, was just wrapping up as we arrived. If you are ever in the area, this is a perfect place to stay. Beautiful room, garden and even a pool. Thank you Roberto for an AMAZING night!!! WHAT A DAY!!!!!! Scott

	August 5, 2009
	Friday, August 7, 2009 12:47 AM
	Ferrari Waking up with a definate meat hangover from our over exuberance in Parma, we paused to consider where our journey should now take us. Milan or the Ferarri Museum. Tails it was and we were off to Maranello If you even remotely like exotic cars, the Galleria Ferrari is something not to be missed. Works of art in the form of hand made, extremely limited automobiles. The Galleria showcases Formula 1 cars from the first of ts kind to Gilles Villaneuve and Michael Schumacher's car of today. This was not just a F1 showcase..the Enzo, F50, California, Testarossa, even a Daytona and a one of 360 Barchetta were on display. And that is just to name few. Outside taking pictures, I noticed Fabio talking to some guy, waving his hands in the air in typical Italian fashion. The next thing I know, I am behind the wheel of a Ferrari 360 Modena bombing down the streets of Maranello and the highways near by. I never would have guessed in a million years the first car I would drive in Italy would be a Ferrari. Something about going more than 200km/h sure gets your heart pumping! After working, or should I say, driving up an appetite we had lunch at a little restaurant close to the Ferrari factory. Judging by the memorabilia inside, it must be a favorite of Ferrari F1 drivers past and present. I can't quite remember all that we ate, I am guessing due to the adrenaline, I do recall a delicious pasta that I referred to as 'Mac and Cheese'. A big pate of that would make any vegetarian reconsider. Creamy cheese sauce studded with meat on perfectly cooked, homemade pasta. YUM!

	August 4, 2009
	Friday, August 7, 2009 12:41 AM
	Parmigiano-Reggiano Big day today here in Parma. How could we be in here in Parma and not go and see how two of this regions most renowned foods are made? Of course I am talking about Parmegiano-Reggiano and Proscuitto di Parma. We were met early. Early for me anyway, at 8 a.m. by Chrstiana, a representative for the Parmegiano-Reggiano consortium to take us to a near by cheese factory to see first hand how this "King of Cheese" is made. Upon arrival, we could immeadiately smell the distinct aroma of something special happening inside. We were given a detailed explanation of the process involved: the cows and what they are fed, the region and how the climate and cow's feed are involved. The acual process of making and ageing. And of course, the quality control standardsn that must be met and how they are achieved. Once inside we found the cheese makers hard at work with the day's batch. The cheese is made 365 days a year and this facility makes 36 wheels per day. We were shown the cheese throughout its various stages of ageing and how it must past a series of tests before being given the fire branded stamp of approval. While in the aging room that had thousands of wheels stacked row by row, we were fortunate enough that a buyer had come to take samples to be tested. We were able to try a cheese that had yet to reach its maturity. Which was delicious, it had yet to develop the "grainy" texture that it is known for. We then moved outside to a small patio to enjoy a matured cheese of 24 months and of course a bottle of wine to accompany. Being able to taste cheeses of different ages almost side by side was fantastic. Very imformative morning.

	August 4, 2009
	Friday, August 7, 2009 12:41 AM
	Prosciutto di Parma Christina and Elka, representatives of Parmegiano-Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma took us to a beautiful Parma restaurant before heading off to the prosciutto factory. In the hills just outside of the city of Parma we found ourselves at Osteria La Maestra. Another old farmhouse over looking the surounding area. Yet another restaurant with three generations working inside. We dined on local cured meats, pasta of tortelli fiorentina and stratchi con porcini, and the meat of the day. Today that meat was galletto (young rooster) which was flavored beautifully with fresh herb, garlic and tomato. Tons of flavor that had us licking the bones clean. With our guide, Elke, we soon arrived at the Leporati prosciutto factory. Leporati has been in operation since 1969. Although not as hands on as the Parmegiano experience, we were able to observe the different stages of how pigs leg becomes a beautiful prosciutto. From where the raw legs arrive, the coolers with hundreds of legs in various stages of salting and aging to the cellar that must have 100,000 legs in the final stages of aging (some more than 2 years old) and finally the packing room where some legs will be deboned and the majority sealed as is and packed for shipping, we were quite impressed. With our gracious host, Silvana Lepoarti, we tasted what I hope will soon be the prosciutto served at Centini. Delicious. Proof that a small operation run by people who have a passion for what they do can produce a product unlike any other. After a much needed nap we both agreed we were way too full to have our usual 3 or 4 or 5 course dinner. Wandering the streets of Parma, we stumbled across a small pizzeria on a dark side street. There we sat on the patio, enjoyed a nice cold beer and a delicious pizza. Crisp, fresh and way too much for me to finish. Back to bed!!!! Scott

	August 2 2009
	Wednesday, August 5, 2009 2:37 AM
	August 2, 2009 Hello Everyone, Scott here! After a great flight into beautiful Rome, I was met by Fabio and Carlo to start the adventure of food and wine. First we dined at a little trattoria just inside the city of Rome. We started with some braised tripe in a tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, and prosciutto. All of which were quite tasty. Then we shared spaghetti amatriciana and penne with intestine of lamb. While both were interesting, we agreed that we could definitely have better. For our main course, I had a roasted pork dish which was simply served with potatoes cooked in pork fat. Delicious but very rich. Carlo dined on a Veal chop which he found to be flavorful but a little on the dry side. Fabio had braised oxtail, done in a tomato sauce with celery. This was the clear favorite amongst us. While lunch was good, we felt there are many better meals to come. While walking on the streets of Rome, you have the little pizzeria’s that serve beautiful light and tasty pizzas that are made fresh. These thin pieces of pizzas are sold by weight. There were a least 8 or 9 different toppings. They all looked so tasty, I wanted to taste all of them. We settled for the sausage pizza, oh yes, a little spicy, tasty and light. Just as I was saying that I was full from lunch, I had finished the whole slice of pizza! After a flash bang tour of Rome…the Vatican, Colosseo, Spanish Steps and Pantheon, to name a few, we drove to Coco Village. A small restaurant just outside of Rome right on the sea. Sitting on a beach front terrace, the view was almost as amazing as the food. They specialize in beautiful fresh seafood caught and served the same day. We started with antipasto of raw langoustines, braised octopus, and shrimp all prepared very simply with lemon and olive oil. Unbelievably fresh. Next, two pasta courses, first a delicious shrimp ravioli and then a linguine with clams and sea asparagus. Both made in house and with the freshest seafood. A final course of lightly battered and fried red mullet and cuttlefish pleased our taste buds. Simple, fresh and delicious. A great meal with an amazing view, what could be better? After a day of travel, being awake for nearly 33 hours, and having my first meals in Italy, I was ready for bed! A fantastic start. Very much looking forward to our next meals!! Scott

	First day in Italy (Roma)
	Friday, August 7, 2009 12:54 AM
	Hello dear friends and guests Well friends, if you have not yet been on the new Air Canada Boeing 777 oh you must. The little extra you pay to sit in executive class is a steal for what you get. It is the most comfortable ride I have had on a commercial flight. It is a must. These reclining seats make the ride quick and comfortable. I arrived in Rome ready to do some serious eating and tasting of Italian wines. The staff I had on this Air Canada flight was accommodating and just a pleasure to deal with. Great job ladies and gentlemen, thank you. This is all from my reclining seat. So if you are off to Rome, this is the way to go. My first day in Rome I had the pleasure of Meeting up with my dear friend Carlo Valentino. I had lunch at his home, and what a great lunch. His wife had gone out in the morning to pick up some fresh mozzarella and Buffalo Ricotta made that morning that was just to die for. It was a simple lunch but it was very tasty and makes you respect quality products. The lunch was made up of Cheeses, Prosciutto (three different kinds) arugula and cherry tomato salad, and a radicchio risotto. To drink we had cold white wine and café. One cheese that I love is Stracchino, a very soft cheese made from cow’s milk after they have gone for a long walk up hill. Served fresh, it is delicious. For Dinner he took me to Frascati. A place just south of Rome in the mountains, there is a restaurant hotel that is called Cacciani Ristorante (www.cacciani.it ).As I walked in I noticed they are members of the Boun Ricordo (Memorable Plate Guide). Buon Ricordo is a Guide for smaller family run restaurants that is a great book to follow when dining in Italy. The restaurants that have a great standard for food and wine are awarded a plate specially designed for that restaurant. Most of these restaurants are the family establishments that you want to know about but do not know how to get this information. This book is the way to go. Their website is www.fondazionebuonricordo.org but it is in Italian and it does not list the restaurants. I hope this can led to you putting your hands on one. If you can find your way to Frascati of one of the Buon Ricordi restaurants, you will be able to purchase a book on site and from there have the keys to Italy, so to speak. Our meal composed of local dishes. We started off with a simple antipasto of cold meats and cheeses. A pasta dish of three different pasta, Rigatoni amatriciana, carbonara and cacao and peppe. For the main, my friend Carlo had Coniglio alla cacciatora con funghi galletti (Rabbit with wine and winegar and galletti mushrooms ). I had a local roman dish, Abbacchio scottato e cicorie ripassate (Grilled baby lamb with salted cicory ). Wonderful, it was light tasty soft and tender dish, perfect for that hot summer night. ( Pictures of the dishes are on our website in our photo tab ). Scott Beaton and I will be filing regular reports from Italy, should you wish to follow our progress. He arrives today. Regards Fabio

	Chef's Tour of Italy
	Friday, July 31, 2009 8:25 AM
	In August Fabio Centini will take Chef de Cuisine Scott Beaton on a chef's tour of Italy. From a homebase in Ascoli Piceno, Le Marche, Fabio's home region, they will visit with chefs and producers, immersing themselves in all things current on the Italian food and wine scene. Updates, photos, great finds and other news about the Big Adventure will be posted here on the new restaurant blog.

Last Updated: Sunday, August 16, 2009